Ifyou can come up with another similar screw, use it for the second hole. Thescrew you saved from Step #3 can be used for one of the shroud-side holes andwill not hit the fan blade within. Do not push hardand do not hit the fan blade within! Drill a slightly larger hole on the case-side of your mount where itwill line up with the screw thread. Now place the mount on the shroud using yourmarkings and VERY CAREFULLY drill further so that you have holes going throughthe plastic as well. Mark how it sits on the fan shroud and drill twotiny holes (1/16" bit) through the shroud-side of the mount. Bend the metal so it lines up to both the topof the fan shroud and the point above the screw thread on the case. I used a thin piece of copper but any metal is fine. Note: Leavethat tape covered until the end of Step 7. You could optionally fabricate mounts to lineup to all three screw threads on the case, but with my sturdy rubber pads andthe tape that will be included on the exhaust side if you buy your fan new, Iwas fine with only one new mount. Create a mounting bracket to secure the fanshroud at the point farthest from the exhaust port. This picture shows the three pads I made, and the fan shroud with its originalmounts ground off.ĥ. Higher pads will allow for greater clearance and more air intake - justbe sure the fan still lines up with the heatsink and the case closes over it. I made my pads abouttwice the height of the factory material. It doesn't matter what you use - as long asit won't melt - and you'll want it to have a small footprint so it doesn'tblock airflow. I used small pieces of arubber material called Dynamat but padded mirror tape would work, as would manylayers of electrical tape placed on top of each other. The factory pieces will not line up so you'llwant something under the fan for clearance and to allow air intake from theunderside. Make spacers/pads to hold the new fan up. You'll need to remove it and grind down thatprotrusion as well. There's also one smallblack screw in the corner with the yellow sticker. You'll need to cut them off so the shroudwill fit. Notice the three mounting brackets that protrudefrom the sides of the fan shroud in the picture from Step 1.
While you have access, youmight want to blast that exposed exhaust port with some compressed air to makesure everything is clean.ģ. Also disconnect its power jack from themotherboard.
You need the newblade AND the new shroud for this to be effective.Ģ. I tried that first and it doesnot increase airflow. Note: Do not just swap the M14x's fan blade into your existing M17x fanshroud. The markings to search for are: XN0G5 and/or DC28000AJF0. The R1's fan has a 2CFM sticker rating while the R2's has 10.4!
#ALIENWARE M17X R3 PARTS SERIES#
There are many eBay sellers, for example, selling the R1 fan as an "M14x series fan," implying that bothrevisions use the same fan - which is not true. It MUST be an R2 fan!! The fan blade design is clearly different so usemy picture as a reference. So here are the steps with some pictures:ġ. On longer stress tests,it DOES recover from this reducedspeed state and spikes of ~4GHz are seen for the remaining duration of thetest. With this fan mod, system runs 4.1GHz for ~ 55 seconds before dropping to 3.7GHzbecause of heat.On longerstress tests, it DOES NOT recover from this reduced speed state becausecooling is not adequate. With original fan, system runs 4.1GHz for ~ 28 seconds before dropping to3.5-3.7GHz because of heat.Running a 60-second CPU stress test on all four cores in Intel XTU, with a 65watt CPU TDP programmed, and a core voltage of 1.351v, the difference is asfollows: My original CPU fan was adequate (not great but adequate) fora 3740qm CPU 3.7GHz but when I upgraded to a 3920xm CPU and overclocked to4.1GHz x 4 cores, I needed more cooling - a lot more.
#ALIENWARE M17X R3 PARTS UPGRADE#
CPU Fan Upgrade Procedure for M17x R3/R4 (2.0CFM->10.4CFM!)
0 kommentar(er)
